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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.